How to spend 24 hours on Governors Island, home of the city’s best sunset

By Stacey Lastoe

It’s a car-free zone with an entire area given over to hammocks. There’s outdoor art, oysters, and an urban farm. Vast outdoor areas invite relaxation — though there’s also space to grill and throw a low-key picnic. On the last Thursday of every month from late April to late November, a City College ecology professor leads a guided nature walk. And when the sky is clear at night, the sun sets in the most spectacular fashion with epic city skyline views in the background.

A mere 400 yards off the coast of Brooklyn and twice that from Lower Manhattan, Governors Island may not immediately register as the great city escape you’re looking for this summer, but it is in fact just that.

The under-radar enclave has a lot going for it, not least of all a tranquil atmosphere that inspires slowing down and relaxing.

This is best achieved over the course of 24 hours. Although Governors Island is open year-round, the best time to visit the oasis in the middle of frenetic New York City is during the spring or summer when there’s greater opportunity to stay and play.

Note: With development of a climate campus expected to begin in 2025 — to the tune of some $700 million — there’s no time like the present to experience the city escape before big changes threaten to disrupt its lowkey vibes.

Getting there
Back in the day, Governors Island served as a military outpost, and, later, as a base for the U.S. Army and Coast Guard. But since 2005, it has welcomed visitors to enjoy its public parkland, arts and culture, and fresh air all a stone’s throw from the mainland. Overnight guests have been staying at the Collective Retreats glamping site since 2018.

To get there from Brooklyn, seasonal ferries operated by the Trust for Governors Island will run Saturdays, Sundays, and holiday Mondays beginning this Saturday, May 25, to September 2, 2024. You can catch the ferry from Pier 6 in Brooklyn Bridge Park or Red Hook/Atlantic Basin.

The Governors Island ferry is less than a 10-minute ride from Lower Manhattan, accessible via the 1 to South Ferry, 4, 5 to Bowling Green, and the R to Whitehall. Grab a cup of coffee from Joe Coffee inside the Battery Maritime Building Ferry Terminal while you wait for the ferry. Rides are free on Saturdays and Sundays before 11 a.m.; otherwise, it’s $5 for the round trip. Oh, and there’s no extra charge for bikes or strollers, though overnight guests of Collective Retreats have access to bike rentals set up by the team’s concierge.

1 to 4 p.m.: Art, history and culture
After dropping your bags off at Collective Retreats — currently the only place to stay overnight on the island — head out on foot or bike to explore the island’s public art. The Governors Island Arts program takes advantage of the outdoor spaces and every year its Organizations in Residence program hosts artist residences inside the island’s historic military houses.

This year, check out Sam Van Aken’s Open Orchard, an installation that takes the form of an orchard composed of 102 fruit trees, or Shantell Martin’s Church, whose signature black and white drawings present Our Lady Star of the Sea in a new light. The Catholic chapel opened during World War II and is one of a handful of non-landmarked buildings located in Governors Island Historic District.

History buffs will be happy to know that a small portion of the island’s north end is dedicated to the Governors Island National Monument, which includes two former military fortifications: Fort Jay and Castle Williams.

You can also opt for a free hour-long walking tour where the history of the island is shared as you take in the island’s lush scenery.

4 to 5 p.m.: Checking in and happy hour
Last summer, the glamping retreat Collective Retreats debuted four new accommodations: The Summit Tent King, Outlook Villa King, Outlet Shelter King, and Outlook Liberty Suite. These new structures incorporate state-of-the-art infrastructure, and, in doing so, are redefining glamping.

The private tents are gentler on the wallet and plenty comfortable for an overnight stay. Private bathrooms, Wi-Fi, and full electricity provide some creature comforts while outdoor decks invite guests to soak up the great outdoors.

From 3 to 5 p.m. Collective Retreats offers happy hour drinks where guests receive a free drink ticket good on select beverages.

6:30 to 8:30 p.m.: Dinner
With only a couple of options for supping on the island, at least you don’t have to worry about experiencing decision paralysis. You can stay by the glampground and mosey on over to Three Peaks Lodge, where an a la carte menu features wood-grilled dishes with a focus on seafood and cocktails (all $18) include the Governor’s Gimlet made with vodka and cucumber and the Midnight Mojito with blackberry.

Island Oyster is as much about the freshly shucked bivalves as it is about the panoramic views of New York’s harbor and downtown Manhattan. Open until 8 p.m., Island Oyster serves an excellent lobster roll and cocktails to inspire moods, like the Permanent Vacation made with “Gunpowder Proof” Jamaican rum, cask-aged Demerara rum, blue Curacao, coconut, pineapple and cherry.

The only other option if you don’t want to eat dinner before 6 p.m. (though if early birding it sounds good to you, see Taco Vista or Tokyo Drumstick, the latter only open on weekends) is Gitano Island. The Tulum-based beach club serves upscale Mexican fare like the 12-hour slow-roasted short rib birria and tasty cocktails, including the Bird of Paradise (Sipsmith Gin, El Tesoro Reposado Tequila, coconut, vanilla, passion fruit, lime). The tropical garden setting is the icing.

9 p.m.: S’mores
After dinner, pull up a spot at one of Collective Retreat’s campfires and gorge on s’mores with a side of nostalgia. All the fixings—marshmallows, Hershey’s chocolate, and graham crackers—are included in the stay, and it’s the perfect nightcap.

8 to 9 a.m.: Rise and shine
Collective Retreats offers a complimentary in-tent breakfast option. Continental fare and French press coffee will prepare you for the daily 9 a.m. yoga class (also complimentary).

Or skip the downward facing dog and explore the island further on boot or bike.

10 to 12 p.m.: Spa session
If you’re feeling peckish after the yoga workout or morning bike ride around the island, make a quick stop at Makina Cafe, an Ethiopian food truck open daily at 10 a.m., before making your way to QC Spa.

QC Spa boasts 20 invigorating wellness experiences including an outdoor heated pool (more stunning views from this perch), saunas, steam baths, and experiential showers. Book a spa treatment for extra pampering; the Revitalize is a 75-minute massage, but QC also offers 25-minute massages and couples massages.

If you’re not in a hurry to get back to the hustle and bustle, cap the trip with an ice cream cone from Brigs Sweet Shop (on select weekends) or a pilsner from Threes Brewing, open weekends on Liggett Terrace.