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Brooklyn stepped up at New York Fashion Week SS23
Twelve shows to know about from NYFW's Spring/Summer ‘23 season, where the borough was dressed to impress
Runway shows. After parties. Homegrown designers. Brooklyn made itself known at the Spring/Summer ‘23 New York Fashion Week. The event officially wrapped on September 14, but there were still shows as late as the 16th. Here is a recap of the 12 collections that were either unveiled in the borough or created by Brooklyn designers. Look sharp!
Bandit Studioz
“Returning to Eden”
563 Johnson Ave., Brooklyn, Sep. 16
Photo by Jachuku Howard, shoes by ARCH
You may recognize Maryland-born, Brooklyn-based designer Jachuku Howard from his appearance in Beyoncé’s “Black is King.” Not long after, the designer, model and stylist hung his own shingle at Bandit Studios. His NYFW collection “Returning to Eden” imagined a modern day Garden of Eden, resplendent in earth tones and a natural themes.
“I wanted to create clothes that can seamlessly coexist in a natural habitat with ideas from the future,” said in his artist’s statement. To that end, he used colors from the nature and organic shapes from vines to create a design language for the collection.
Howard is a graduate of both Marymount University and Lorenzo de Medici in Florence, Italy. Typically known for his knitted pieces, and this season, he is bringing a different look to the books.
Who Decides War
“Underwater”
The Shed, NYC, Sep. 11
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This season, Who Decides War founders Tela D’Amore and Brooklyn native Ev Bravado channeled their Caribbean roots in their vibrant Spring/Summer ‘23 (SS23) collection “Underwater.” The brand specializes in distressed pieces — and they incorporated climate change, floods, and more.
At their Shed show, the denim-focused brand intertwined their signature embroidery with earth tones, mapping details, and island elements. Spotted in the audience: Trippie Redd, Kyle Kuzma, the Clermont twins, and more.
Tommy Hilfiger
“Tommy Factory”
Skyline Drive-In, Brooklyn, Sep. 11
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Usually, when you pull into a drive-in, the last thing you would expect to see is a Tommy Hilfiger runway show. “Tommy Factory” pays homage to Andy Warhol’s iconic Downtown studio — where Hilfiger and him met in the 1980s. Presented at Brooklyn’s Skyline Drive-In, the newest collection braved the rain as John Legend, Kate Moss, Jon Batiste, Kris Jenner, Trippie Redd, Wisdom Kaye, and others soaked in “Tommy Factory” with their umbrellas up.
Looking back to the past and also into the future, Hilfieger brought two different worlds together with a digital livestream on the Roblox global platform metaverse. The in-real-life runway gave viewers a diverse show–with models of all races, sizes, and shapes (including Winnie Harlow and Julia Fox). Not to mention, Travis Barker ended the show with a drum solo during the walkthrough finale.
Theophilio
“Homecoming”
Live Rocket Studios, NYC, Sep. 14
Courtesy: Theophilio
Nostalgia meets personal experience in Edvin Thompson’s newest collection “Homecoming.” Thompson, who last year won CFDA’s American Emerging Designer of the Year Award, brought his immigrant experience to the runway. What is only Theophilio’s second NYFW runway show, Y2K and Caribbean influences combined to bring bedazzled tops, leather pants, mesh tops, tiny bikinis, and Jamaican headpieces inspired by J’Ouvert.
At the show, which was held at Live Rocket Studios, the dark ambience set the tone for the pre-rolled joints and Theophilio towels as gifts for everyone in the seats. Growing up in the ‘90s and 2000s, Thomson says he is inspired by Tom Ford. Theophilio’s signature logo can be seen on the sexy, yet laid back pieces, and jewelry — not to mention the oversized bags. Expect to see a lot more of this Brooklyn-based designer.
A.Potts
“Hiding the Horizon”
Location 05/Daylight Studios, NYC, Sep. 9
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Aaron Potts of A.Potts debuted their newest collection at New York Men’s Day near Hudson Yards. Inspired by Questlove’s Oscar-winning doc “Summer of Soul,” Potts says Mavis’ and Sly’s liberation, soul, and electricity influenced the concept of earthbound spirits. The collection combines earth tones with bright colors and textures. Potts, the Detroit native and now Brooklyn-based designer breathes life into his drapey, balloon-like pieces.
“They made me think of angels on earth and I thought how angels just might be surrounding us at this very moment,” Potts says of his collection, called “Hiding the Horizon. “They manifest through the work of artists, but they also surround us masked in the sunlight, the wind, the rain, clouds and mossy forest floors. This collection is as much about an ascension into the clouds as it is about having our feet planted firmly in the grass.”
Collina Strada
“Got Milkweed?”
Brooklyn Greenway, Brooklyn, Sep. 9
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The Brooklyn Greenway, site of the former Brooklyn Naval Hospital Cemetery, was transformed into a monarch butterfly preserve for Collina Strada’s SS23 collection “Got Milkweed?” The diverse models wore pieces that were metaphoric of a butterfly’s life cycle. Which is fitting, thematically, in that Strada collaborated with Levi’s to use upcycled denim, with Vitelli to create repurposed knitwear, and 3D-scanned denim with Unspun.
Strada also collaborated with Melissa and Virón to design a futuristic yet classic-looking jelly shoe. The popular designer is known for her eccentric, never-before-seen looks — and for making it inclusive. On the runway, Aaron Rose Philip could be seen making her way down the greenway in a colorful balloon skirt and tiny flower-like top.
KidSuper
“Breathing Life Into the Inanimate”
Black Wall Street Gallery, NYC, Sep. 10
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Colm Dillane, a.k.a. KidSuper, presented “Superby’s.” Taking inspiration from Sotheby’s auction house, he created 23 oil paintings and then brought them to life as 23 separate looks — art inspired by life and creating more art.
While it was presented as a reenacted auction and runway show for Paris Fashion Week, Dillane opened Chelsea’s Black Wall Street gallery to the public for New York Fashion Week. Like a museum, people were able to walk through, enjoy food and drinks, and view the collection with a little party to go along with the viewing.
Against Medical Advice
“Cesarean Section”
New Design High School rooftop, NYC, Sep. 14
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The runway show “Cesarean Section” was billed as the “live birth of Against Medical Advice to the world,” according to the designer. “A child conceived as the offspring of all the worlds that make Oluwole Olosunde who he is today.” Olosunde’s partnership with Adidas evokes the human body throughout.
Which makes sense because Olosunde is also a nurse, (who is, for the record, not actually against medical advice). A former contestant on HBO Max’s “The Hype,” the Brooklyn native is also a multifaceted stylist, event planner, masterclass teacher, and co-founder of event series Beautiful Faces.
Heaven by Marc Jacobs party
Elsewhere, Brooklyn, Sep. 10
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Just a day after Marc Jacobs revealed their newest collection for Heaven, much of the collection was seen on artists who performed at Brooklyn’s popular venue Elsewhere. Performances by Doja Cat, PinkPantheress, Yaeji, Charli XCX, and Kaytranada gave viewers a sneak peek of the new collection as they spent all night performing in the Heaven looks.
The exclusive event had clubbers in a line wrapped around for blocks those who did get in — including celebs Dev Hynes (of Blood Orange), Madonna, Pamela Anderson, Kyle MacLachlan, Evan Mock, Rickey Thompson, Tyler Mitchell, Tokischa and Coi Leray — were not afraid to get down in their designer threads.
Musty
“The Trilogy”
111 Broadway, NYC, Sep. 12
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It’s dark, it’s deep, it’s modern. Born in Jamaica and now based in Brooklyn, Tyrone Smith a.k.a. Musty presented his avante garde collection “The Trilogy” in the financial district on Sep. 12 Smith takes pride in creating all of his pieces in his Brooklyn apartment. The collection included oversized balloon pants, giant shoulders, and simple, yet chic tops and outerwear.
“The Trilogy” speaks to who Smith is becoming as a designer. His unique designs represent “political plus philosophical commentary about his interaction with the world, applying historical implications to each of his collections while offering inferences of what the future of fashion will look like.” Smith, a Massachusetts College of Arts and Design graduate, says his goal with Musty is to challenge the perception of design and couture.
Tier
“Tier University”
Long Island University Plaza, Brooklyn, Sep. 9
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Founded by three Brooklynites, Tier’s latest collection “Tier University” served the real college experience. The show at Brooklyn’s Long Island University Plaza kicked off with line dances by Black fraternities and sororities and a surprise performance by Kai Ca$h and Nico.
Academia meets comfort at “Tier University.” We all dress comfortably when we go to class, so why not make it chic? A blend of knitted cardigans and sweater vests paired with sweatpants and denim makes for the perfect back-to-school look. “Flatbush Misdemeanors” star Kristin Dodson was seen strutting down the runway in a jumpsuit, rapper Toosii in a checkered jacket, and the new Fresh Prince of Bel Air’s Olly Sholotan in a signature “Tier University” sweater vest.
Melke
“How to Act Like a Man”
Spring Studios’ Sunken Living Room, NYC, Sep. 13
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Inspired by the 1966 Czech film “Daisies,” Emma Gage’s SS23 Melke collection explores the film’s thematic chaos between two women who aspire to break free from gender stereotypes. The colorful and texture-filled collection intertwines surrealism with masculine and feminine looks. At Spring Studios’ Sunken Living Room, Melke evoked food fights and body builders, among other scenes from “Daisies.” “How to Act Like a Man” demonstrates just how sick women are of being portrayed as “dainty.”
