Friday night is ‘Lazagna’ night in Cobble Hill—for now

By Scott Lynch

Remember Brucie? Zahra Tangorra’s wonderfully homey, often wildly inventive Italian restaurant on Court Street always felt like the best party in town. A quintessential “beloved neighborhood spot.”

Tangorra shut Brucie down in early 2016, but when her follow-up boutique catering career cratered when Covid hit, it was, ironically, the isolation of the early pandemic that brought her back into our lives with Zaza Lazagna, a weekly takeout-only pop-up which she launched last winter with her business partner (and former Brucie-ite) Ryan Crossman.

Classic meatless lasagna, which can be order by the slice ($14) or tray ($40) (Scott Lynch)

“It was just such a heavy time,” Tangorra tells Brooklyn Magazine. “And it continues to perpetually be heavy in spurts. So Zaza felt like something we could do to re-engage with the community, and also re-engage with our culinary selves. Kind of de-ice from a long time of not working in that space.”

There are only three more Zaza Fridays left this season, before Tangorra and Crossman take a break and retool for summer, so let’s get right to the logistics of the operation: Every Saturday a new menu appears on Zaza Lazagna’s Instagram (as with Brucie, each week is almost completely different from the last). You click over to the website’s ordering form, and on Friday evening, between 6:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m., Tangorra hands you your packed-up feast, with a warm greeting and bit of banter, at the Shelsky’s on Court Street.

Lazagna popup pickup time, Friday evening at Shelsky’s (Scott Lynch)

Crossman’s here too, manning a table right inside that’s filled with grab-n-go items for “walk-ins,” or if you want to supplement your pre-ordered supper. It all takes seconds, and Zaza has to be rigid about the pickup time so as not to interfere with Shelsky’s regular business (Tangorra and Crossman also use the kitchen here at night to cook), but somehow the vibe is more neighborly than transactional.

“Something that we loved at Brucie was a deep sense of community,” says Tangorra. “We really tried to connect with people in a way that was different than just like ‘here’s your food, give us your money.’ We really loved the people who came in.” It’s a feeling she effortlessly conveys at Zaza as well.

“When we started doing Zaza, there was this special thing about it,” adds Crossman. “All these people coming and being like ‘well Friday now is lasagna day,’ and talking about their pod. It was really heartwarming, because even though we weren’t in a shared space like at Brucie, we felt like we were still giving people a dinner party. More than anything, that’s what makes Zaza special. It really did change the way my life was feeling back then.”

The headliner at Zaza Lazagna each week is, obviously, the lasagna, which is usually offered two ways: one a “classic meatless,” a thing of beauty that I gleefully ate for three nights in a row over this past weekend; and a special, which this week is lasagna alla vodka, and in the recent past has included lasagna al limone, and a chicken, bacon, ranch lasagna. You can order either lasagna by the slice, or get a whole tray.

Every week there’s a different meat entree; the maple balsamic chicken was delicious (Scott Lynch)

Tangorra’s lovely meatballs, which house a delightful zestiness, are almost always on the menu, as is the oversized loaf of garlic bread, which she served to me with a schmear of tomato butter.

Tangorra’s zesty meatballs; three for $14, six for $25 (Scott Lynch)

There’s also usually a soup—the Italian wedding was terrific; this week it’s potato leek’s turn—and a serves-two meaty entree, and a seasonal vegetable side.

Last week’s Italian wedding soup; this week it’s potato leek (Scott Lynch)

Don’t skip dessert. Last week’s chocolate budino, served with festive flair, was spectacular.

Last week’s chocolate budino, packed up with festive flair; $12 (Scott Lynch)

Each week’s menu and ordering information can be found at Zaza Lazagna’s Instagram page (@zaza_lazagna); pickup is every Friday between 6:00 and 7:30 at Shelsky’s, 141 Court Street, between Atlantic and Pacific. Zaza’s winter season ends April 1, summer menus and schedule will be announced on Instagram.