Greenberg’s Bagels owner Julian Cavin opens a classic NYC pizzeria in Bed-Stuy (again)

By Scott Lynch

(Scott Lynch)

Julian Cavin didn’t plan on opening a pizza place. Greenberg’s Bagels, which Cavin launched about three years ago in Bed-Stuy with his partner, Jamison Blankenship, had proven to be a hit, and running that business, especially during the pandemic, was already a full-time job.

But the wine bar right next door to Greenberg’s remained shuttered after the first Covid lockdown, and as time went on Cavin couldn’t resist snatching up the space. “I wasn’t going to open a pizzeria if it wasn’t next door,” Cavin told Brooklyn Magazine. “The bagels worked so well here though, and there were no other pizza places around, so we were like, wow slices could work well too. Pizza and bagels… they’re just easy to comprehend foods. They’re things that everyone loves already.”

Blankenship left the pizza partnership after the two had a false start with slice shop Frankie and Vali’s here (it was an amicable split; Blankenship is still co-owner of Greenberg’s, and also runs the popular ramen spot Chuko), Cavin brought in a new partner, his childhood friend chef Joey Scalabrino from the great Leo in Williamsburg, and Valentine’s was born.

Valentine’s has only been open for a couple of weeks, and Cavin and Scalabrino are batting around ideas for expanding the menu in the future, but right now this is just a simple, quintessential, Brooklyn slice-and-pie joint. “We’re just trying to make a high-quality version of classic New York-style pizza here,” said Scalabrino. “Just keeping it really straightforward.”

Pizza comes in five varieties, and all of them are first-rate. The straight-up cheese (or “plain,” or “regular,” or “margherita” if you’re feeling fancy) nails the form, a perfect balance of chewy cheese and not-too-sweet sauce on a slightly-charred, totally foldable crust. There are few more satisfying NYC dining experiences than wolfing down a well-executed slice on the sidewalk, and Valentine’s delivers on that front.

Valentine’s pepperoni pizza adds a blanket of funky, glistening ‘roni cups to the party, and the vodka slice subs in the thicker (and more brightly orange) titular sauce for the basic tomato. A rosso pizza, which skips the cheese entirely and adds fresh garlic, is vegan friendly down to the dough and packed with enough big flavors to appeal to omnivores too.

The 18-inch pepperoni pie; $26 (Scott Lynch)

The sleeper hit, though, might be Scalabrino’s white pizza, which arrives bubbling from the oven with taleggio, ricotta, and mozzarella. Truly a rich, creamy, salty thing of beauty.

The white pie; $24 (Scott Lynch)

The only other food option here are garlic knots, beckoning in a big bowl at the counter.

Garlic knots; six for $6 (Scott Lynch)

Valentine’s serves beer and wine, or enjoy some non-alcoholic refreshment via Cavin’s other other business, Brooklyn’s Best iced tea.

Cavin also owns Brooklyn Best iced tea; cans at Valentine’s are $2.99 (Scott Lynch)

You can order your slices and pies through the pandemic-era sidewalk window and eat them outside—between Greenberg’s and Valentine’s, there’s ample outdoor seating, with more to come—or grab one of the tables inside behind the red, prancing-zebra curtains. Delivery is also available through the Valentine’s website.

Cavin is a life-long Brooklynite, he named Valentine’s after his four-year son, and the whole setup exudes a relaxed, welcoming, no-bullshit vibe. “I love Bed-Stuy,” he said. “Love the community, love our customers. We’re going to do a lot of events here this summer, block-party-style stuff.” It’s probably safe to assume that at least one of those involves the most obvious collab between his two shops, the legendary pizza bagel.

Valentine’s Pizza is located at 1063 Bedford Avenue, between Lexington and Greene Avenues, and is currently open on Wednesday through Sunday from 1:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.