New Smith Street spot features dim sum, dumplings — and a robot cat server  

By Scott Lynch

Dim sum and then some (Scott Lynch)

A new dim sum restaurant is always a welcome addition to the neighborhood. And Dimmer and Summer, which officially opened Saturday in Cobble Hill, hits all of the expected dim sum notes, with a full menu of both traditional fare (crab meat and pork soup dumplings) and more unexpected offerings (chopped cheese scallion wrap).

But the star of the show here, at least the first few times it shows up at your table, is your server: a whimsical robot with cat ears and a repertoire of cute “facial” expressions, bad jokes, and tinny songs. I’ve seen photos of these BellaBot beasts before, helping out in the dim sum palaces of Flushing, but as far as we can tell this is the first robot server deployed in Brooklyn.

Robot cat, at your service (Scott Lynch)

Visits from the kitty likely lose their charm after a while, but the goofy gimmick drew consistent laughs as it rolled by on opening day, dodging foot-traffic Roomba-style, chirping out a chorus of “Happy Birthday,” delivering bamboo steamers from its multi-shelved torso. (Note that the BellaBot cannot climb stairs, so don’t sit in the upper-level lounge if you’re craving some of that cat robot action.)

The owner of Dimmer and Summer is Kenny Mei, a veteran restaurateur who grew up “next to Hong Kong” in the Guangzhou province of Southern China, and has lived in New York for 32 years. Mei also runs two other restaurants. One in Bayside and another Fresh Meadows, but this is his first Brooklyn operation.

“I was originally looking in Park Slope, on Fifth Avenue, but got outbid by another company, so my agent recommended this space in Cobble Hill,” Mei tells Brooklyn Magazine. “I like this area. Everybody is very friendly, they welcome us, they give us support. And Brooklyn seems busier than even Manhattan.”

We feasted from all over the menu last weekend, and everything ranged from fine to fun to very good. The shrimp dumplings, or har gow, had a nice snap to them.

Shrimp dumplings; $8.95 (Scott Lynch)

The steamer of rainbow soup dumplings hit the spot, each of the five with a differently hued sac and sagging with either pork, crab, chicken, garlic, or “spicy” broth, which wasn’t spicy at all.

Rainbow soup dumplings; $11.95 for five (Scott Lynch)

The Szechuan spicy wonton were also not spicy (the chili oil lacked chili). Nor were the Szechuan style chicken wings, though these were excellent otherwise, with a crackling skin and juicy bird within.

Szechuan style wings; $11.95 (Scott Lynch)

Vegetable pan fried noodles, salty with soy and plenty chewy, performed their sidekick role admirably.

Vegetable pan fried noodles; $11.95 (Scott Lynch)

There are some more fusion-y offerings here as well, including plump Philly cheesesteak buns, a novelty that worked, and a chopped cheese scallion wrap, which tasted good but was too leaden to really enjoy.

Philly cheesesteak buns; $9.95 (Scott Lynch)

The appropriately greasy scallion pancake is a good bet, though: plated like a pizza, it comes topped with tiny roe for an extra hit of umami.

Scallion pancake, plated pizza-style; $7.95 (Scott Lynch)

A variety of dessert buns and iced tea- or fruit-based beverages provide sweets and refreshment. Hot Chinese tea and a full array of coffee drinks are also available. Takeout will be an important part of the mix here, says Mei — there’s a huge LED menu hanging by the door, for counter service orders —and, if you’re lucky, that robot cat will roll up with your bag of to-go goodies while you wait.

(Scott Lynch)

Dimmer and Summer is located at 196 Smith Street, between Baltic and Warren Streets, and is currently open on Monday through Thursday from 11:00 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., on Friday from 11:00 to 10:30, on Saturday from 10:30 to 10:30, and on Sunday from 10:30 to 9:30 (929-295-9999)