The superb contemporary-Chinese ‘diner’ Milu expands to Williamsburg   

By Scott Lynch

The three partners who run Milu, the excellent contemporary Chinese counter-service restaurant that first opened on Park Avenue South in the fall of 2020 — and just this week expanded their operation with a second location in Williamsburg — all come from the professional world of fine dining. Chef Connie Chung, for example, spent nine years working for the Eleven Madison Park group.

But as co-partner Vincent Chao explained to Brooklyn Magazine earlier this week, all three of them have very different personal journeys with regards to Chinese food.

Photo by Scott Lynch

“I grew up in Hong Kong and came to the States when I was like 14 or 15, but my childhood food memories have always been a big part of my identity,” says Chao. Chef Connie is American-Chinese, born in Chicago, trained in classic French techniques, and visits Hong Kong and South China regularly to see her family. And Milan Sekulic is Australian but lived and worked in China for 12 years. So all of us have different backgrounds when it comes to our understanding of Chinese food — what it should be, and what it could be.”

The result of their combined experience, in life and in the hospitality business, is Milu, one of the city’s great Chinese restaurants, though one that maybe doesn’t even really register as such if you’re walking in cold. As Chao points out, the vibe here is “very much like a diner or a neighborhood joint” with the casual ease of a counter-service place. You order in the back, find a table or a booth, inside or out back in the pretty patio area, plant one of those number flags, and a runner will bring your food.

There are six core dishes on the menu, and all of them are excellent. I’ve eaten at the Flatiron original many times, and had just about the whole menu at the new Williamsburg outpost this week, and chef Chung’s food is consistently great. Order with confidence, wherever your cravings lead.

The lively chili crisp chicken comes in bite-sized bits, and harbors a serious, satisfying crackle. The soy roasted chicken is equally good, the juicy bird just a little bit sweet and wonderfully ginger-y. And the luxe Mandarin duck leg brings crisp skin, sweet hoisin, and a touch of class to your table.

My personal favorite, possibly, is the Yunnan brisket, the tender chunks of beef sticky with Chung’s chili garlic mint sauce.

Yunnan brisket bowl with marinated cucumber, $16 (Scott Lynch)

Or maybe the ginger scallion salmon is my favorite? The fish is so soft and clean-tasting, and the accompanying chunky sauce is delicious. There are two vegan options as well, including a Williamsburg-exclusive fried tofu and avocado creation.

Fried tofu and avocado bowl, $14 (Scott Lynch)

All of these come with rice, a salad, and the chef’s choice of side, whether ordered as a “bowl” (portioned like a hearty lunch) or an “entree” (a hearty dinner).

It comes as no surprise that Chung’s sides are also terrific. The citrusy charred broccoli, the tofu seaweed slaw, the zippy marinated cucumbers, the bitter and bright watercress cilantro salad all complement their respective meats, fish or vegetables in fine fashion.

Chili crisp chicken bowl with tofu seaweed salad, $15 (Scott Lynch)

You can also get the sides on their own; two choices plus an order of rice makes for a full meal. There are wontons too, including a six-pack of funky smoked pork and cabbage beauties doused with chili soy and vinegar sauce.

Smoked pork and cabbage wontons, $8 (Scott Lynch)

And unlike every other fast-casual restaurant I can think of, dessert at Milu is an absolute must. In fact, it’s so good it wouldn’t be weird to come here only for dessert. The egg tart and the pineapple soft serve are both best-in-class, and the pineapple buns, which may look like they’re no big deal, are filled with a delightful vanilla custard and pineapple curd mix.

Pineapple soft serve, egg tart soft serve, $5 each (Scott Lynch)

Beverages options include Hong Kong-style milk tea, a yuzu palmer, beer, wine, sake, and, new for Milu Williamsburg, a selection of $8 bottled cocktails. Brooklyn is also going to get Milu’s first-ever brunch service starting later this summer, with offerings such as an egg sandwich with cheddar and Mandarin duck on a King’s Hawaiian bun, and Chung’s chil fried chicken on a waffled scallion pancake.

“We’re really trying to build a neighborhood restaurant,” says Chao. “When we first opened in Flatiron, before we had regulars, most people who came in didn’t really know what kind of food we sold, which in a way was great because it gave us an opportunity to talk to them about the traditional Chinese dishes that have inspired our menu. And I think it will be very fun for us to keep doing that now, with a very different crowd here in Williamsburg.”

The Williamsburg Milu is located at 235 Kent Avenue, between Grand and North First Streets, and is currently open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.