New in Greenpoint: Gator opens in former La Fond space

By Scott Lynch

For chef and owner Allyx Seemann, Gator, which she opened a couple of weeks ago a few blocks from her home in Greenpoint, is an extremely personal project.

First, there’s the name. When Seemann was kid, Allyx became “Ally” became “Ally-gator” became “Gator,” and the nickname has stuck through to today. No, there’s no alligator on the menu here, and it’s not a Cajun joint either (Seemann grew up in Connecticut). It’s called Gator because she is Gator.

Gator’s physical space, too, carries meaning for her. The corner spot used to be La Fond, where Seemann worked as a server on and off for many years, often in between her kitchen shifts at places like Jean Georges and, more recently, Nura, nearby on Norman Avenue. She wasn’t really planning on opening her own restaurant in 2023, but when La Fond’s owner moved upstate, and encouraged her to take over the lease, she seized the sudden, unexpected opportunity.

Seemann also completely designed Gator’s interior — before transferring to the culinary side of things, Seemann worked in hotel and restaurant design; her first job was doing Carbone — so what you see and feel while you’re here comes directly from her. “Groovy and nostalgic, but modern,” is what she’s going for. The playlist is also all Seemann, and it’s stacked with Shazam-worthy rock-n-roll bangers from the likes of Her’s, The Subways, Republica, and, uh, Gerry Rafferty.

And then there’s Gator’s menu, which you could describe using such now-meaningless cliches as seasonal, or ingredient-driven, or New American, but none of that comes close to capturing Seemann’s creative spirit. She worked for years as a private chef, a job that requires inventing new recipes “like every single day,” she said, and every dish but one at Gator is a Seemann original. (The one exception: a superb bruléed bread pudding, which comes courtesy of her fiancé Marcos Fernández, who supports her in the kitchen.)

Seemann has put her heart and soul into Gator, and that love — for making exciting, satisfying food, and for feeding her neighbors in a warm and inviting space — translates readily into an exceptional dining experience.

There are only about a dozen savory dishes on the menu here, but all four that made up our late-December feast were winners. Gator’s cheeseburger, for example, is a thing of beauty, a beast of a sandwich cheffed-up just enough to keep you on your toes, with a crisp miso tempura mushroom on top and a generous drizzle of tangy yuzu aioli dribbling down the side. Definitely a party on a plate, but with a familiar, oh-so-juicy core.

Cheeseburger with miso tempura mushroom, $20 (Scott Lynch)

If you’re feeling a bit fancier, get the hake, a slab of tender, flaky fish blanketed in a vibrant parsley-based crust and beached atop a mound of crunchy black rice. Other entree-sized items include sticky short ribs with coconut rice, and a mac and cheese made with lasagna-like ribbons of pasta.

Hake with parsley crust on black rice, $32 (Scott Lynch)

The starters are hefty and lively as well. The shaved brussels sprouts, a New American stalwart for sure, is given fresh zing with a blast of preserved lemon, some creamy turnip puree, and  gobs of sticky, chewy fried quinoa plopped on top.

Shaved brussels with fried quinoa, $16 (Scott Lynch)

And the clam toast is spectacular, a whole mess of bivalves strewn across on a hunk of sourdough from Nick and Sons.

Clam toast, $22 (Scott Lynch)

I already told you which dessert to order — the bruléed bread pudding really is a treat — but there’s also a flourless chocolate cake with toasted meringue on there vying for your attention, so maybe get both? There’s wine to be had, with glasses going for around $16 to $18, as well as several different beers for $7 a pop.

“We’re excited to be here,” Seemann says. “I’m very overwhelmed, but the neighborhood’s been great. It’s fun to feed the community that you’ve been a part of for so long.”

Bruléed bread pudding, $12 (Scott Lynch)

Gator is located at 105 Norman Avenue, at the corner of Leonard Street, and is currently open on Wednesday through Monday from 5:30 to 10 p.m. (718-500-4868)